In a startling revelation, Italian police raided several suppliers of LVMH’s Dior and Giorgio Armani, uncovering a disturbing practice in the production of luxury handbags. This investigation has unveiled that Dior and Armani have been paying a pittance to produce high-end bags that retail for thousands of dollars, leading to a significant controversy in the luxury fashion industry.
Italian prosecutors in Milan recently scrutinised the LVMH subsidiary Dior’s subcontractors, revealing that the company paid as little as $57 to produce handbags that sell for approximately $2,780. This cost excludes the price of raw materials such as leather. Giorgio Armani was also the subject of the investigation, revealing that the company paid $99 per bag for products that retailed for over $1,900.
The prosecutors’ findings indicate that Dior and Armani failed to adopt appropriate measures to monitor the working conditions and technical capabilities of their subcontractors. The prosecutors found these third-party suppliers, primarily Chinese-owned firms, exploiting their workers to produce luxury bags at minimal costs. The production facilities forced many workers to sleep in order to meet the round-the-clock manufacturing demands.
Electricity-consumption data tracked by investigators showed that work was being conducted during nights and holidays.The investigation also uncovered the removal of safety devices from machinery to boost production, thereby jeopardising worker safety.
The investigation’s findings have led to judicial action against both luxury brands. Judges in Milan placed Dior and Armani’s units under judicial administration for one year. Despite this, the companies maintain their operations during this period.
Court documents highlighted that violating labour laws is a widespread practice in the luxury industry, driven by the pursuit of higher profits. Fabio Roia, the president of the Milan Court, emphasised the dual issues at play: the mistreatment of workers and the unfair competition that undercuts law-abiding firms.
The scandal highlights a wider problem in the luxury fashion industry, where companies often disregard labour laws to increase profits. According to LVMH’s environmental– and social-responsibility report, the conglomerate had 2,062 suppliers and subcontractors and conducted 1,725 audits last year. However, these measures seem insufficient to ensure ethical labour practices.
LVMH and Armani have yet to address these allegations fully. Dior submitted a memo outlining improvements in its supply chain, but the details and efficacy of these measures remain unclear. The public and industry regulators will closely watch the luxury giants’ responses to these allegations as they come under increased scrutiny.
This scandal serves as a stark reminder of the need for greater transparency and ethical practices in the luxury fashion industry. As consumers become more aware of the origins of their products, companies such as Dior and Armani must prioritise fair labour practices and corporate responsibility in order to maintain their reputations and consumer trust.
The luxury fashion industry must take these findings as a wake-up call and implement stringent measures to ensure that their supply chains are free from exploitation. Only then can they truly uphold the values of luxury and exclusivity that they so fervently market.